Barcelona, Spain
Barcelona, Spain July 4-7, 2024
Barcelona is a wonderfully lively city on the northeastern coast of Spain, nestled between the Collserola mountain range and the Mediterranean Sea. The city of 1.6 million people is known for its rich cultural heritage, exceptional climate, and role as a European transportation hub. It is a prime destination for any lover of food, sun, and sand.
We arrived at El-Prat International Airport later than expected due to a flight delay. The airport, which handles over 50 million visitors annually, was bustling. Our driver, Jordi, was very accommodating in picking us up late. As we set off, conversation quickly turned to the city. While passing through the industrial area dotted with warehouses, tech startups, and cruise ships in port, Jordi shared local spots he enjoys, as well as some of his favorite landmarks. Local insight is always welcome. Simply ask, and most will share—leading to experiences you might never otherwise have.
After a 20-minute ride, we arrived at the Duquesa de Cardona hotel. Located along the promenade and just minutes from Playa de la Barcelona in the Gothic Quarter, it is the perfect base for exploring the city. The rooms are well-furnished, comfortable, and quiet. The rooftop bar and restaurant serve up great cocktails and the famous Spanish tapas. I particularly enjoyed the “Dark and Stormy”, a mix of rum and ginger beer. The view of the marina and the surrounding city is hard to beat.
After an enjoyable first night, I was unaware of what Barcelona had in store. As a frequent traveler, I’ve had my share of mishaps—nothing too serious—mostly delayed flights, missed connections, or bad weather. On our first morning after a nice breakfast at the hotel, we took a walk down the famous La Rambla on our way to the Catedral de Barcelona. The tree-lined street, busy with vendors setting up for Friday night festivities, was lively even in the early morning. As we reached the cathedral, I paused to admire its intricate stone spires reaching into the clear blue sky. As I turned to walk away, I failed to notice I was on the edge of a curb. I slipped off of it, and the base of my fifth metatarsal (the bone along the outside of the foot) took the full impact of my body weight. I immediately knew something was wrong, though I wasn’t sure how serious it was.
After a quick assessment, we decided to head back to the hotel. Limping along, my foot bruised and swollen, the hotel staff kindly provided vacuum-sealed bags of ice while Melanie went to the nearest pharmacy for painkillers and a brace. I was convinced it was just a sprain, but Melanie insisted we go to the hospital. She thought it was broken. I relented the next day, but as a non-EU resident, insurance complications arose. I decided to wait until we returned to Belgium to seek treatment. Once home, a visit to the emergency room and an x-ray confirmed it; my foot was broken. Women’s intuition wins again! Melanie and I shared a look when the doctor told us. Apparently the look on my face was that of severe displeasure. It was all lighthearted in the end though—I accepted my fate and took it in stride (pun intended). Back to Barcelona. We had bought hop-on hop-off bus tour tickets before that ill-fated morning, and I wasn’t going to sit idle. I could hobble, and that was good enough. With my foot tightly wrapped and painkillers in my pocket, we boarded the bus at the Monument a Colum. Jordi had mentioned the day before that Columbus was supposed to be pointing towards America, but in reality, he points towards North Africa. Quite the oversight for one of history’s most famous explorers!
Our first stop was the Arc de Triomf. As the name suggests, it’s a smaller version of its Parisian counterpart and was built for the 1888 Universal Exhibition held in Barcelona. Made of red brick and adorned with intricate carvings, it serves as an impressive backdrop to the surrounding cityscape. Local musicians played a mix of traditional and contemporary music, creating a lively atmosphere. After a while, we headed back to the bus and the Plaça de Catalunya, located at the end of La Rambla. The square buzzed with activity—buses, taxis, high-end shops, and restaurants surrounded the square. We passed through, changing buses as we made our way to Barcelona’s most iconic landmark.
The Basilica I Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Familia, or simply the Sagrada Familia, is truly a sight to behold. Construction began in 1882, and it has been ongoing ever since. This Catholic church is a UNESCO World Heritage site, combining Gothic and Art Nouveau styles. Its structure almost looks organic, as if it’s alive and growing. Admiring it from every angle, I noticed something new each time I looked. It’s incredible, and understandable why construction has taken so long. Despite the cranes and construction fences surrounding it, the majestic form is still clearly visible. Unfortunately, we could only admire it from the outside. If you want to tour the interior, buy tickets at least a week in advance. Don’t make the same mistake we did! Even with a broken foot, I would have gladly explored the interior of this monumental structure.
Unfortunately, this was the end of our tour. There was so much more to see, but I wasn’t mobile enough due to my injury. On the bright side, the Euro Cup (essentially World Cup Jr.) was happening that weekend. For two nights, we set up camp at Sedna, a restaurant just a block from our hotel. The terrace had TVs outside for watching the games, and we indulged in excellent food—paella is a must—and plenty of drinks.
Despite our low-key “nights in,” Barcelona had one more surprise for us. With a population of 1.6 million, the city saw over 12 million tourists in 2023. The surge in tourism has contributed to a housing crisis—prices have risen nearly 70% over the past decade, and local commerce and working conditions have suffered. On July 6th, a large protest passed through the city along the promenade, with thousands of locals expressing their frustrations. Some protesters placed crime scene tape around restaurants, used squirt guns, and set off firecrackers, while others chanted slogans like “Go home, tourists” and “Reduce tourism now.” As a result of protests like this, Barcelona plans to ban tourist apartment rentals by 2028, returning 10,000 units to the local housing market.
Barcelona is a great city, and I’d love to return to see the many sights I missed. However, the protests served as a sobering reminder to be mindful, appreciative, and respectful guests in the places we visit. While we may not be able to change things on a large scale, simply being kind and interested in local customs, culture, and interests can go a long way. I’m not fond of the label "tourist"; I prefer "traveler." But in reality, I am a tourist. I strive to be the best one I can be, and I’m grateful to those who welcome us into their countries, cities, and homes.
